I have always wanted to visit Istanbul. There is something exotic about the name which conjures up images of past civilizations, beautiful palaces, mosques and emperors. And divided by The Bosphorus, it is the only city to span two continents.
The city has had several names throughout its long history, each reflecting a different period and power. Originally founded as Byzantium by Greek colonists in 657 BCE, it was later renamed Constantinople in honour of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great.
Following the fall of the Byzantine Empire and the city’s conquest by the Ottomans in 1453, it was often referred to as “Kostantiniyye,” the Arabic form of “Constantinople.
The Ottoman empire lasted until the 20th century, with he last Sultan fleeing the city in 1922 following the victory of the Nationalists under Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. A Turkish republic was proclaimed in 1923 and the city officially gained its current name, Istanbul.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
We had a very pleasant flight with Turkish Airlines (four and a half hours) during which I watched two films! And when we landed it took about 30 minutes to taxi to the terminal, such is the size of the airport, covering an area of 76.5 million square meters. (We saw more of it on the return flight. Designer shops galore but be prepared: an Americano is €7.50)
Our guide – Hilmi – was waiting for us and once he gathered the group together, we were on our way. It took just under an hour to get to our hotel near Taksim Square (the heart of downtown Istanbul). Check-in was quick and then he brought us for a short tour of the area.
We could not get over the amount of people out strolling on Istikal Street, the main shopping street, near the square. We were outside high season! But considering that the population of Istanbul is over 16 million, I suppose it was hardly surprising.
One turn off the main street down narrow passageways was a maze of shops and restaurants.
GG and I chose a restaurant and a table on the street. Our food was delicious mezze to start with and fish for main courses. We also struck up a conversation with a couple, one of whom from Istanbul which made our evening very enjoyable. The only shock was the price of the wine. Eventually, we meandered back up to our hotel marvelling at the shops and the crowds, the street vendors and the tram which made its way carefully between the people.
ARTS HOTEL TAKSIM
Our hotel was perfectly located and following our days’ sightseeing we had an abundance of wonderful restaurants nearby. For centuries, Istanbul has been the crossroad between West and East and there are lots of influences in Turkish cuisine from neighbouring countries. The buffet breakfast in the hotel was a perfect example of this. We had everything from a typical Turkish breakfast of cold meats, cheeses and olives, fruits and yogurt to fried zuccini, eggs and spicy sausages. And a huge assortment of breads and pastries.
The rooms were modern and comfortable with power showers and the hotel staff and concierges could not have been more helpful.
SIGHTSEEING
Our itinerary was packed full, particularly, if you went for the optional tours in the afternoon. Most of the group did, as it occurred to us all that Istanbul was not the easiest city to navigate. Also, it meant we never wasted time trying to understand the public transport system.
Hagia Sophia
What a history it has, reflecting the changes that took place in the city itself.
Originally a Christian church in 6th century, it became a mosque then a museum until President Erdogan converted it back into a mosque in 2020. The Hagia Sophia still retains the elements of Christian and Islamic religions, which is what makes it so fascinating.
Blue (Sultanahmet) Mosque
This is literally a few hundred metres away from Hagia Sophia. Built in 1616, the Blue Mosque is famous for the intricate blue tile work that covers the interior of the building. Its beautiful blue tiles, elegant minarets, and ornate interiors make it a must-see.
Basilica Cistern
I loved this cathedral-sized former water reservoir constructed between 527 and 565, which once held the water for the entire city. It has an eerie ambience, with its 12 rows of 28 giant marble columns illuminated by yellow light. Most of the columns appear to have been recycled from the ruins of old Roman buildings.
Amongst the highlights at the Basilica Cistern are two mysterious columns depicting the head of the mythological figure Medusa.
The Grand Bazaar and Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar
We visited at the end of a busy day and maybe that was why I was overwhelmed by one of the largest covered markets in the world. Seemingly it has more than 60 streets, 21 entrances and over 4000 stores. In operation since the 15th century, it offers a wide range of goods, from spices and textiles to jewellery and souvenirs. I found it too big and far to easy to get lost. But I could admire the architecture. If you go, make sure you give yourself plenty of time to explore. We didn’t. And nothing was bought.
The Egyptian Bazaar, located near the Grand Bazaar, is a historical spice paradise. Here, you can see more herbalists, spices, and dried fruit shops and, of course, Turkish Delight.
Palaces
We visited Beylebeyi, the opulent summer residence of the Ottoman Sultan but were not allowed to take photos of the lavish interior. The most surprising element was a massive fountain in the main hall. Seemingly, the sound of running water meant that conversations could remain private.
BOSPHORUS CRUISE
Most of the group went on this optional tour. Our guide had organised our own private boat and for over two hours, we had stunning views of Istanbul’s skyline, spanning both Europe and Asia. If going to Istanbul, do include a cruise.
Hilmi gave us a running commentary, as we admired the architectural wonders lining the shores, including majestic Ottoman palaces, ancient fortresses, and bustling waterfront neighbourhoods. And, of course, we had ample opportunity to ask questions as we were on our own.
BALAT
On our final day we were palaced and mosqued out! I know many of you had recommended The Topaki Palace and some of our group did spend many hours there and loved it. But GG and I love to wander, soak up the street ambience and drink coffee. So we spent a huge part of the day in Balat, one of the oldest districts in Istanbul.
We loved the colour, cobblestone streets and friendly people.
And of course the cats. They were everywhere, but were well looked after.
TRAVEL DEPARTMENT
If you go to Istanbul, go with a guided travel company. Of all the cities we have visited, this is definitely one where having a guide makes your experience far more enjoyable. The city is huge and navigating it on your own would be extremely stressful. GG and I dislike stress!
We have gone with Travel Department and its sister company TD Active on many, many holidays both long haul and short haul over the last 18 years and they never disappoint. In recent years, I have become an ambassador for the company. Click on the links to read about India and Morocco with TDActive or Tuscany, Slovenia, Porto and Lisbon with Travel Department.
RANDOM THOUGHTS
Traffic is chaotic and rush hour lasts all day.
You need to dress conservatively if visiting mosques. That goes for men and women. No knees on show and women must ensure their heads and shoulders are covered too.
Wine is ludicrously expensive – stick with beer!
We found eating out expensive enough, but we ate well.
There was a very obvious police presence everywhere.
Thank you for reading. You can see more photos and videos on my Instagram and Facebook. I was a guest of Travel Department.
Hilda x
Great article! Sounds like a fascinating place to visit and it is now definitely on my bucket list.
You would love it John. x